Artists' Town? Which one, though?
LONG recognised as THE artists‘ town, Kirkcudbright faces competition from a close neighbour with a highly respectable cultural pedigree. Mary Gladstone reports.
WUTH WELL-KNOWN names like William Mouncey, Jessie M. King, Charles Oppenheimer, E. A. Hornel, Christian Jane Fergusson and Lena Alexander associated with Kirkcudbright, how could it not have earned the tag, Scotland's Artists' Town?
Kirkcudbright's influence, however, wasn't (and still isn't) confined to the town itself. Eight miles farther west, is Gatehouse of Fleet, a smaller town but no less interesting in its artistic legacy.
During the first half of the 19th century James Faed, a local miller, married Mary McGeoch. They had 6 children, 5 of whom became artists, some exhibiting at the Royal Academy, London and others at the Royal Scottish Academy, Edinburgh.
John, the eldest, painted miniatures, Thomas exhibited at the RA in 1864, James was an engraver and Susan painted and exhibited at RSA, Edinburgh. The Faeds inspired future artists in Scotland, including E. A. Hornel, one of Kirkcudbright's most famous artists.
Dumfries & Galloway in the south-west, with its picturesque towns, varied coastline, magnificent hills and diffuse light, has attracted artists for at least two hundred years. While, formerly the Glasgow Boys and female artists, headed by Jessie M King, lived in Kirkcudbright, giving the town its reputation, today's artists and creatives are more diffuse, their homes and studios sometimes located in more remote parts of the region.
Richard Brinley outside his Ochre Gallery, in Gatehouse
The sculptor and photographer of land and environmental art, Andy Goldsworthy is based in Penpont village, near Thornhill in Dumfries-shire. Artist and print-maker, Lisa Hooper, practises in Port William by Luce Bay, Wigtownshire and felt artist, Linda Irving has settled at the southern tip of the Rhins of Galloway.
Although Kirkcudbright and Gatehouse lay claim to a rich artistic legacy, there's not a huge difference between them. Gatehouse's population is 990 while Kirkcudbright's is 3,391. Gatehouse has a more feudal heritage than Kirkcudbright. Its streets of neat 18th and early 19th century houses were planned by local landowner James Murray, whose descendants are now selling. Cally estate of 2,780 acres, is up for sale for over £ 7 million.
As with other towns, Gatehouse and Kirkcudbright have a river flowing through them. Fortunately, for Gatehouse, the Fleet river has a less faulty bridge than its counterpart in Kirkcudbright crossing the Dee.
On March 21, Dumfries & Galloway Council ordered Kirkcudbright's ugly 5-span, reinforced concrete bridge, built in 1926, to close, which meant a five mile detour for drivers. It re-opened 100 days later on July 4. Complaints that the closure split the town in half and cut off traffic from Castle Douglas and Gatehouse of Fleet, didn't perturb artist, gallery-owner, Richard Brinley, whose gallery, until well into May was situated in the town.
Harbour Gallery and Castledykes Castle, Kirkcudbright
“I don't think the closure affected tourism much as you don't pass through Kirkcudbright. It's a destination town. It was detrimental to the other side of the river (without the shops and galleries). I think we got publicity from being cut off!”
Richard knows both towns well. He came from Nottingham 25 years ago to live in Gatehouse and loves the Fleet estuary and valley, feeling at one with this environment. He owned Ochre Gallery, close to the Tolbooth, in Kirkcudbright, for 10 years and has now moved it to Rutherford Hall, a Grade B listed old church building in Gatehouse's High Street, close to the river.
The different moods and colours of the Galloway scenery have persuaded Richard to paint land and seascapes. He also paints birds. At this time of the year, swallows, house martins and swifts offer a compelling subject, as do musicians. He is fascinated by movement and tries to capture it in avian and human form.
Richard regards both towns as attractive artist centres and reminds your ArtWork reporter that Dorothy L. Sayers's 1931 detective novel, “The Five Red Herrings”, set in Galloway, has artists living and painting in studios in both Kirkcudbright and Gatehouse.
“There have always been artists in Gatehouse. When I came to live in the town, there were as many here as there were in Kirkcudbright.”
By the beginning of the 21st century, it wasn't so easy for them. Any advantage in being connected to a famous artists' colony had long gone. Kirkcudbright was (and still is, to a certain extent), known for its artists of the past.
Things changed for the better when in 2010, WASPS (Workshop and Artists' Studio Provision Scotland) linked two houses, Cannonwalls and Claverhouse, to provide 14 affordable artists' studios.
Eight years later (in 2018) Kirkcudbright Galleries was established, which has helped bring new art and artists to the community.
Gatehouse has new blood too. Like Kirkcudbright, with its Art & Craft Trail (August 1-4), Gatehouse's Gala Week (July 27 – August 3) draws crowds. This year the volunteer-run Big Lit Fest, “a small, rural festival with a big heart and huge ambitions” is July 18-20. As for the Mill on the Fleet, all three floors are packed with activity, including PA Popup shows, run by a co-operative exhibiting 'professional artists' work.
As for the Mill's café, it's had a major re-vamp, offering fresh ideas on 'fresh' (presumably) food, that's locally grown, foraged or picked from the communal garden cultivated at the Mill itself.
On top of it all, Liz Gilbey leads weekly art classes at Rusko Studios nearby. Gatehouse is beginning to give those Faed siblings a run for their money!
MARY GLADSTONE
